Fashion 2000s heyday 2000–2004 peak

Puka Shell Necklaces

Puka Shell Necklace

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The little white shell choker every guy wore over a popped-collar polo circa 2001 — beachy, breezy, and slightly cheesy. Puka shells turned a Hawaiian souvenir into a mall-store staple of the early-2000s.

A puka shell is a naturally bead-like shell found on the beaches of Hawaii — specifically the beach-worn apex of a cone snail, with a hole already through the middle. "Puka" is the Hawaiian word for "hole," which is exactly what makes the shells easy to string without drilling. Such jewelry was once gifted by Hawaiian royalty to visiting dignitaries, and grew popular during the tourism boom that followed Hawaii's statehood.

The shells had their first big fashion moment in the 1970s, when the necklaces became sought-after by celebrities — Elizabeth Taylor among them — and prices climbed. Decades later they were revived through California surf culture in the 1990s, setting up the version most people remember.

That memory is pure early-2000s: the short white shell choker worn by teenage boys over a popped-collar polo, a fixture of the surf-and-mall aesthetic sold at stores like Hollister and Abercrombie & Fitch. By then most of the "puka shell" necklaces on the rack weren't cone shells at all but other shells or molded plastic — a mass-produced echo of a genuine beach find, and all the more of its moment for it.

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